| · Portal |
Help
Search
Members
Calendar
|
| Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register ) | Resend Validation Email |
![]() ![]() ![]() |
| boostinfc3s |
Posted: Feb 6 2009, 01:12 AM
|
|
SYTFU's broken fc3s Group: Members Posts: 435 Member No.: 299 Joined: 22-November 08 |
boostinfc3s's Bee*R Rev limiter write up for the s4 TII
Alright, So I finally got around to it and i'm posting my write up on how to install the Bee*R Rev limiter for our s4 turbo's. Hopefully after this thread there will be no more frustrating members making threads on how to install the Bee*R because I know I had a hell of a time trying to get this little thing to work and even then it wasn't working right. I'm not sure if its the same way to install it for s5's but I know for sure this is how to install it for s4 TII. I know I'm going to leave something out, So if theres a step I missed and you guys need help on it just send me a PM or post a reply and I'll get back to it. Here we go: You will need: The Bee*R rev limiter Gauge wire ( if you want to ground the 2nd rev limiter to the e-brake) Wire cutter/splicer Electrical tape A whole lot of patience 1st step : You're going to have to do work on the ECU, So it'll be wise of you to remove your passenger seat. Lets start by removing the 4 14mm bolts connecting the seat to the car. After you've done that, remove the passenger side kick panel, I believe its 2 pins. Then you'll need a phillips screw driver to remove the side plastic strip that has "Mazda" engraved on it, this will allow you to move the carpet backwards making it a less pain in the ass to work on the ECU itself. 2nd step : Now you should see a tidy little box after you bend your carpet back. If I remember correctly, there are 6 10mm bolts that holds a plate over the ECU itself to protect any rough passenger you might ever have that starts the punching and the kicking because you're boosting too hard. After you're done with the 6 (5?) 10mm bolts you'll see the ECU. 3rd step : To be on the safe side before I get sued for this, disconnect your battery. Then, disconnect the 3 adapters that are connected to the ECU. I will name these 3 adapters as follows. The fat one, the middle sized one, and the little one. If you can't distinguish what i'm talking about after you look at the adapters, just stop here. You won't get the rest. Step 4 : Lets take a look at your Bee*R. Theres 4 wires that come from the box. a red wire, a green wire, a white wire, a black wire and a yellow wire. The red wire is for power, green is for signal. White is optional, if you want a 2nd rev limiter to use as launch control / 2 step then you will not want to forget hooking this wire up. You will also need to buy gauge wire if you want this connected, its not long enough to reach the e-brake by itself. The black wire is of course the ground wire and the yellow wire is for RPM signal. Lets hook up the red wire first. Depending on how the wire looks already you might want to splice it to give yourself a little more room to do the tapping but, its all up to you. The red wire connects to the IG power wire. Which for S4 (N333) ECU is here. (Posted Image) Step 5 : The green wire is what usually stumps people while installing this. You tap the green wire from your Bee*R to the Crank Angle Sensor G [1]. Its the 3rd wire over if you start from the left when you look at the "fat" adapter. If you are still clueless, here is a picture. (Posted Image) Step 6 : The white wire is optional but you'll probably want to install it. Hooking up the white wire will allow you to have a 2nd rev limiter which means you can either set it up as a toy, or a 2 step launch control. I take advantage of both. You start by splicing your gauge wire, then depending on how much space you have to work with the white wire on the Bee*R just tap it, and tape it. Run the white wire through the side through your cd player / heater to the e-brake. Theres a little metal piece that sticks out near the e-brake which you can just ground it to. You might have to removed your center console or whatever gets in the way. I remember removing close to everything in the middle. Step 7 : The yellow wire taps into the RPM signal. The RPM signal wire is the bottom left wire on the "fat" adapter. Do what you gotta do to your wires, tap it, and tape it back. Here is a picture to give you a better idea of which wire it is. (Posted Image) Step 7 : The black wire can be tapped to any ground. I tapped this ground wire to 3G of the s4 TII FSM which is located on the 2nd wire of the left when you look at the "little" adapter. Here is a picture aiding you if you have a more visual brain. (Posted Image) Step 8 : There are 3 little wire loops connected to the opposite side of all the wires. Theres a brown one, a grey one, and a white one. If you follow the instruction on Bee*R's website, it wants you to cut the brown wire for rotary. The problem is if you cut the brown wire you will not be able to rev past 5k regardless of how high you turn the limiter knob. So instead of cutting the brown wire, cut the grey wire which is intended for a 4 cylinder vehicle. From what I've heard a 4 cylinder has something similiar to our rotaries when it comes to the rotation cycle or what not. Anyways, If you cut the grey wire it'll work like a charm, trust me. Step 9 : Put back everything the same way you took it out, sit back, have a beer, and enjoy. I'm sure theres something I left out, so if you have any questions I'll try my best to help out. If theres something you would like to add on to this write up, let me know i'll include it. Have fun guys. |
| SYTFU_FC3S |
Posted: Feb 6 2009, 01:15 AM
|
|
sytfu anti-socialite Group: Moderator Posts: 982 Member No.: 12 Joined: 11-April 07 |
hella through. thats what i like to see.....
i still havent herd you set it off tho', i know it sounds killer. |
| boostinfc3s |
Posted: Feb 6 2009, 01:18 AM
|
|
SYTFU's broken fc3s Group: Members Posts: 435 Member No.: 299 Joined: 22-November 08 |
when shit gets back to running in prime, then i'll set it off anytime of the day ;)
|
| sytfu_RR |
Posted: Feb 13 2009, 03:36 PM
|
|
Death got to be easy, cuz life is hard. Group: Moderator Posts: 859 Member No.: 17 Joined: 12-April 07 |
nice.
|
| CasperIXRR |
Posted: Feb 22 2009, 11:52 AM
|
|
IMAMODBITCHLOL Group: Moderator Posts: 749 Member No.: 106 Joined: 22-July 07 |
so youll be doing this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LnKKWI30sEs&feature=related
hahah |
| SYTFU_FC3S |
Posted: Feb 22 2009, 01:21 PM
|
|
sytfu anti-socialite Group: Moderator Posts: 982 Member No.: 12 Joined: 11-April 07 |
|
| Jack The |
Posted: Apr 23 2009, 04:35 PM
|
|
Member Group: Members Posts: 76 Member No.: 366 Joined: 15-April 09 |
Nice. I believe with the FC, the 4 cyl setting should be used because the signal from the ignition coils to the ECU is similar to a 4 cyl. Don't ask me why, just what I've heard.
|
| rneteoriteflo |
Posted: Jun 16 2009, 10:33 PM
|
|
CRASH KING Group: Members Posts: 252 Member No.: 18 Joined: 13-April 07 |
So dope, reminds me of Tsuyoshi Tezuka's R324. Shit was poppin' like fourth of july at Irwindale!
|
![]() |
![]() ![]() ![]() |