bee*r rev limiter for s4 TII Fc3s
boostinfc3s
Posted: Feb 6 2009, 01:12 AM


SYTFU's broken fc3s


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boostinfc3s's Bee*R Rev limiter write up for the s4 TII

Alright, So I finally got around to it and i'm posting my write up on how to install the Bee*R Rev limiter
for our s4 turbo's. Hopefully after this thread there will be no more frustrating members making threads
on how to install the Bee*R because I know I had a hell of a time trying to get this little thing to work
and even then it wasn't working right. I'm not sure if its the same way to install it for s5's but I know
for sure this is how to install it for s4 TII. I know I'm going to leave something out, So if theres a step
I missed and you guys need help on it just send me a PM or post a reply and I'll get back to it. Here
we go:

You will need:
The Bee*R rev limiter
Gauge wire ( if you want to ground the 2nd rev limiter to the e-brake)
Wire cutter/splicer
Electrical tape
A whole lot of patience



1st step : You're going to have to do work on the ECU, So it'll be wise of you to remove your
passenger seat. Lets start by removing the 4 14mm bolts connecting the seat to the car. After you've
done that, remove the passenger side kick panel, I believe its 2 pins. Then you'll need a phillips
screw driver to remove the side plastic strip that has "Mazda" engraved on it, this will allow you to
move the carpet backwards making it a less pain in the ass to work on the ECU itself.

2nd step : Now you should see a tidy little box after you bend your carpet back. If I remember
correctly, there are 6 10mm bolts that holds a plate over the ECU itself to protect any rough
passenger you might ever have that starts the punching and the kicking because you're boosting
too hard. After you're done with the 6 (5?) 10mm bolts you'll see the ECU.

3rd step : To be on the safe side before I get sued for this, disconnect your battery. Then,
disconnect the 3 adapters that are connected to the ECU. I will name these 3 adapters as follows.
The fat one, the middle sized one, and the little one. If you can't distinguish what i'm talking about after
you look at the adapters, just stop here. You won't get the rest.

Step 4 : Lets take a look at your Bee*R. Theres 4 wires that come from the box. a red wire,
a green wire, a white wire, a black wire and a yellow wire. The red wire is for power, green is for signal.
White is optional, if you want a 2nd rev limiter to use as launch control / 2 step then you will
not want to forget hooking this wire up. You will also need to buy gauge wire if you want this
connected, its not long enough to reach the e-brake by itself. The black wire is of course the ground
wire and the yellow wire is for RPM signal. Lets hook up the red wire first. Depending on how the wire
looks already you might want to splice it to give yourself a little more room to do the tapping but, its
all up to you. The red wire connects to the IG power wire. Which for S4 (N333) ECU is here.
(Posted Image)

Step 5 : The green wire is what usually stumps people while installing this. You tap the green wire
from your Bee*R to the Crank Angle Sensor G [1]. Its the 3rd wire over if you start from the left
when you look at the "fat" adapter. If you are still clueless, here is a picture.
(Posted Image)

Step 6 : The white wire is optional but you'll probably want to install it. Hooking up the white wire
will allow you to have a 2nd rev limiter which means you can either set it up as a toy,
or a 2 step launch control. I take advantage of both. You start by splicing your gauge wire, then
depending on how much space you have to work with the white wire on the Bee*R just tap it, and
tape it. Run the white wire through the side through your cd player / heater to the e-brake. Theres a
little metal piece that sticks out near the e-brake which you can just ground it to. You might have to
removed your center console or whatever gets in the way. I remember removing close to everything
in the middle.

Step 7 : The yellow wire taps into the RPM signal. The RPM signal wire is the bottom left wire
on the "fat" adapter. Do what you gotta do to your wires, tap it, and tape it back. Here is a picture
to give you a better idea of which wire it is. (Posted Image)

Step 7 : The black wire can be tapped to any ground. I tapped this ground wire to 3G of the s4 TII
FSM which is located on the 2nd wire of the left when you look at the "little" adapter. Here is a
picture aiding you if you have a more visual brain. (Posted Image)

Step 8 : There are 3 little wire loops connected to the opposite side of all the wires. Theres a brown
one, a grey one, and a white one. If you follow the instruction on Bee*R's website, it wants you to
cut the brown wire for rotary. The problem is if you cut the brown wire you will not be able to rev
past 5k regardless of how high you turn the limiter knob. So instead of cutting the brown wire, cut
the grey wire which is intended for a 4 cylinder vehicle. From what I've heard a 4 cylinder has something
similiar to our rotaries when it comes to the rotation cycle or what not. Anyways, If you cut the grey
wire it'll work like a charm, trust me.

Step 9 : Put back everything the same way you took it out, sit back, have a beer, and enjoy.

I'm sure theres something I left out, so if you have any questions I'll try my best to help out. If theres
something you would like to add on to this write up, let me know i'll include it. Have fun guys.
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SYTFU_FC3S
Posted: Feb 6 2009, 01:15 AM


sytfu anti-socialite


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hella through. thats what i like to see.....

i still havent herd you set it off tho', i know it sounds killer.
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boostinfc3s
Posted: Feb 6 2009, 01:18 AM


SYTFU's broken fc3s


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Joined: 22-November 08



when shit gets back to running in prime, then i'll set it off anytime of the day ;)
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sytfu_RR
Posted: Feb 13 2009, 03:36 PM


Death got to be easy, cuz life is hard.


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nice.
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CasperIXRR
Posted: Feb 22 2009, 11:52 AM


IMAMODBITCHLOL


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SYTFU_FC3S
Posted: Feb 22 2009, 01:21 PM


sytfu anti-socialite


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bronsons is more like this...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VOj8uG4yebA

his sounds like gun shots.
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Jack The
Posted: Apr 23 2009, 04:35 PM


Member


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Nice. I believe with the FC, the 4 cyl setting should be used because the signal from the ignition coils to the ECU is similar to a 4 cyl. Don't ask me why, just what I've heard.
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rneteoriteflo
Posted: Jun 16 2009, 10:33 PM


CRASH KING


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So dope, reminds me of Tsuyoshi Tezuka's R324. Shit was poppin' like fourth of july at Irwindale!
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