Title: Make up critique please?
Description: How to improve my makeup technique?
Saeto - July 9, 2005 05:43 PM (GMT)
have posted the URLs of some links to my Balticon costume.
One of the problems I encountered when wearing this outfit was the make-up job. I do not have much experience working with makeup and had trouble pulling off the androgynous, bishounen look. At the con, I felt like a J-rocker who slapped some Goth makeup on.
With these considerations about the look I am trying to achieve, could you please offer advice on how I can improve my make-up job, and what facial traits I should emphasize (given the shape of my face) to pull off this character?
SHOT:
http://www.dotphoto.com/GuestViewImage.asp...&ICT=114&IPP=24REFERENCE IMAGES
http://www.dotphoto.com/GuestViewImage.asp...&INUM=38&ICT=72http://www.dotphoto.com/GuestViewImage.asp...&INUM=37&ICT=72
Maura - July 10, 2005 02:00 AM (GMT)
What are you using for your base? It seems a bit patchy in the picture you posted. I wouldn't necessarily go for super-white if your skin isn't naturally pale; lightening it a couple of shades is usually plenty.. but then I don't much care for a mask-white face unless you are doing something very exaggerated/j-rock-style/horrific. I think with this particular costume, the exact shade isn't as important as a smooth appearance.
Saeto - July 10, 2005 03:58 AM (GMT)
A smooth appearance is exactly what I'm aiming for.
Next time, I am also going to choose a more natural color. Because Alucard's an elegant character (and not a ghoul), something natural seems more appropriate than the Ben Nye porcelain color I chose as my base.
You hit the nail on the head when you described the make-up job in the photo as "patchy". Part of my problem I think was the powdering job.
Hoping to make the color look less pale at Balticon, I attempted to uniformly make it more natural by putting a light, flesh tone (tan) colored powder over it.
Xiola - July 10, 2005 08:41 AM (GMT)
i'm not an expert on makeup, but as for the problem you mentioned of the differences between the character's face and your own - would be the same problem i would have if coslaying a bishounen-type-face, with the long angles vs. rounder face shape... so basically to
a) narrow/shadow the eyes and
b) create stronger cheekbones.
(and possibly c) do fake eyebrows, to add to the more "severe" look whereas you have higher open-friendly expression eyebrows)
i'd (it'd take some practice... i hardly have any expertise... just theory lol) experiment with adding "trompe l'oeil" shadows above the eyes and below the cheekbones even though he technically doesnt' have any, because it'll help to fake his faceshape. if you want to narrow the space between your eyes/eyebrows, it involves covering up your eyebrows (various ways to do that), then covering them with foundation, and redrawing them, but sarcasm_hime can explain better how to do it :P
btw, i personally don't mind white makeup for stuff like this since the rest of your skin isn't showing... (i just dislike it when neck/body is showing and obviously doesn't match, like badly done j-rock makeup ending up looking like KISS makeup)... probably a stupid question but did you put moisturizer on under the foundation, then powder on top? that helps it.
the costume and everything looks nice though, overall. :)
Maura - July 10, 2005 02:21 PM (GMT)
I'll just throw in a plug for my favoritest makeup books evar: the incredibly useful and inspirational "Making Faces" and "Face Forward" by Kevyn Aucoin. Contours, highlights, and shadowing are but a few of the topics he covers in depth.
As far as getting a smooth look, were you using a cream foundation? If so, you might try a liquid next time; they can be a lot easier to apply and blend evenly.
Saeto - July 10, 2005 07:38 PM (GMT)
| QUOTE |
| if you want to narrow the space between your eyes/eyebrows, it involves covering up your eyebrows (various ways to do that), then covering them with foundation, and redrawing them, but sarcasm_hime can explain better how to do it :P |
Your explanation makes sense to me. I understand where you're coming from. Maybe Maral could elaborate on the technique?
| QUOTE |
| probably a stupid question but did you put moisturizer on under the foundation, then powder on top? that helps it. |
Ack! I didn't!! -feels embarrassed because moisturizer is such an obvious thing to use-
Xiola - July 11, 2005 06:26 AM (GMT)
| QUOTE (Saeto @ Jul 10 2005, 07:38 PM) |
| QUOTE | | probably a stupid question but did you put moisturizer on under the foundation, then powder on top? that helps it. |
Ack! I didn't!! -feels embarrassed because moisturizer is such an obvious thing to use-
|
hehe, not really, i just know to do it because i asked for help from the lady at the makeup counter the first time i went to buy foundation and she told me how to apply it - my whole first-time buying of foundation pretty much consisted of going to the makeup lady at shoppers drug mart and asking her what to do, coz i figured she knew more than me, and she turned out to be pretty nice ;P and dont' feel dumb, it wasn't that long ago - i bought foundation for the first time when i was like 20/21 XD. use a non-oily moisturizer of course. if the foundation you're using isn't a liquid, it helps to keep the foundation from looking cakey or powdery... it looks really flakey on me if i don't put moisturizer on. actually if i don't have moisturizer around, i have sometimes just wet my face a tiiiny bit with water on my fingers before putting it on coz at least it goes on smoother even if the water evaporates quickly.
then once it's on nicely, lightly powdering on top keeps it from smudging. :)
Maura - July 11, 2005 04:27 PM (GMT)
Also, carry powder with you and touch up your T-zone *often* - it gets shiny faster than you think. If you can find them, I love the little powdered rice paper squares that come in a small booklet; they blot the excess oil and powder simultaneously. I always keep a pack in my con purse.
Sarcasm-hime - July 13, 2005 05:35 AM (GMT)
http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr/making...up/Eyebrows.htm Good info on covering eyebrows ^_^
Basically for making a more 'masculine' appearance you want to emphasize and/or create more angular planes of the face. So you create a more defined and sharper jawline by using darker shades just under the chin, and you can even draw a new more squarish jawline (blend carefully of course). Ditto with cheekbones. Adding slightly darker tones from the eyebrows down along the side of the nose creates a more masculine look, and you can also create the illusion of a narrower nose by shadowing the side of the nose and highlighting a line down the center.
Saeto - July 13, 2005 03:09 PM (GMT)
A huge thank you, Sarcasm and Maura! This is great advice.
Sarcasm-hime - July 13, 2005 04:47 PM (GMT)
Oh I forgot - also, when applying makeup, use a makeup sponge and pat it on a little at a time. Don't smear in long strokes, that'll lead to streakiness. I had to learn that the hard way. *lol*
Saeto - July 14, 2005 02:10 AM (GMT)
Out of curiosity, would you be referring to your makeup job on Morpheus Squared? It looks good in the photos, but I remember you commenting that you weren't able to get the makeup quite the way you would have liked at the time.
Sarcasm-hime - July 14, 2005 03:53 AM (GMT)
Yeah, and I also forgot to bring something to clean my face with. Aquacolor goes on way better if you remove all oil from your face first. :P
Luck in Spades - August 19, 2005 06:06 PM (GMT)
Not sure if it has been mentioned... (I skimmed the posts), but even light also is very important. You might know this already, but I know some people take it for granted. If you don't have even light, then you can't see where your make up gets patchy/streaky/uneven.