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Well I finally got an airbrush albiet not the most expensive. I bought the testors blue compressor for about $100 at hobby lobby, and the beginers paasache brush (that looks strangly identical to the badger) for about $20 And after many trips to find an adapter I managed to get one at home depot that with lots of teflon tape... worked.
So using one of FitmanB's Basilisks as practice I sprayed it with tamiya acrylic flat earth XF-52.
Then on to weathering tests first up was Winsor & Newton Winston oil color mixed with mineral spirits. I think I need something else to mix it with since the paint isn't really thinned so much as ...broken down by the spirits creating areas where pigment seperated into little specs.
Then I tried model master enamal mixed with testors enamal thinner. This filled the recesses much better and didn't saturate the open areas like the oils.
Then I went to remove the excess wash with a Qtip when I realized I missed an important step.
Following the instructions from a Fine Scale Modeler (by some one light years ahead of me) I forgot a crucial step that Stapler taught us to dumby proof this step. A gloss laquer clear coat. http://z11.invisionfree.com/Work_In_Progre...opic=9205&st=30 Needless to say its off to the store for another crazy chemical, and re spraying the basecoat.
PS FitmanB I'm not trashing your tanks I'm not just using them in horrible experiments I will make them nice.
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Here's try two. I repainted the base coat and airrushed a layer of future as a protective gloss layer. And in that regard it worked, the future prevented the base coat from being rubbed away. But my enamal based wash still isn't behaving all the thinners seem to disolve the paint rather than thin it, so even after clean up (which is rather messy) its still all grainy like little black specks accumulated in the resseces rather than the recesss being painted darker. And the black apears to fade as the thinner drys.
Out of desperation I tryed just a future-ink wash and if I'm super careful I think it looks ok and will look better after a dull coat.
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Well I've been working on this for a while. Figuring out how I would do allot of pieces to make it as complicated as possible. I decided that I wanted to remove casualties from my super artillery base so I eventually found the perfect bit for the drill press to make the holes. Then it was "in the pattern" waiting for me to "master" tank painting. when I said screw it I know ths will work so I did it.
1 sprayed tamiya flat earth. 2 Drybrushed bleached bone. 3 Sponged (with blister sponge) scorched earth for chips. 4 light drybrush over larger chips. 5 standard future pin wash.
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Here are some better pictures.
The guy shooting was really hard and even still I'm only glad he doesn't look retarded. Obviously when you are shooting in the prone you would have both elbows on the ground unfortunatly there is no such shooting rm and even for the nonfiring side the arm had to be chopped and extended with GS. It doesn't look too bad painted but unpainted it looked like gogo gadjet extendo arm.
The shoulder pads with the number are made of GS since I lost allot of shoulder pads but I think its hard to tell. The grenade was super easy I just drilled out the old put in a 35th scale tamiya stick grenad and crushed his hand around it. Broke every finger. Fixed with GS and presto guy improperly throwing a grenade from the laying position.
These guys are probably the last of my krieg that I do before I go back to school on the 25th. And I think I will only take my bugs and Ultramarines to work on there. So I got close to my goal of a fieldable army of 55 guys. I got to 36. Which I guess really isn't that close. Stupid contest entry taking up all my time.
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Here is my contest entry. Yes it is indeed the Dust Gunther 1/35th kit. I am sorry for those who feel let down that it is not a 100% scratch build. I suppose I raised the bar too high. I did replace all the handles with brass wire, add brass ladder on the inside of the right leg, and regun it. Sorry the guns arn't 40k enough but I made it to matchmy krieg which are equiped with Maxim pattern HBs.
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first off good job on the kriegers, I would do some more work on mine, but quite frankly, I don't have the cash to pay for such a high cost army, and im a lazy bugger
The heavy mortar and crawling guard are beautiful, true works of art however one thing bothers me while that huge walker thing is nice, it goes totally against fluff DKoK don't have walkers, they are highly impractical beings during trench warfare and it looks too gundam - or armored core like, it looks stealthy and modern, but the truth in 40k is the tanks are Gothic and highly industrial, like a baneblade for example it also looks japanese. sorry a model that confers with the background and beautiful fluff of the deathkorps is downright wrong
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I can't remember where I bought it some random site someone here posted kind of a hole in the wall online store that I ussually would not trust but I took a risk and bought 2 for $50 bucks each.
How does it look japanese it looks like a panzer said transform, its as WWII german as a walker could be made. Yeah I know its un fluffy for a siege regiment to have titans of any size but if you've been paying attention the Titan legions are about to play a very big part in Varks. And who is to say that the 19th ( a regiment wiped out to the last man) couldn't have procured a few titan "trainers" to bolster thier strength. Maybe they got some walkers to counter an increased usage of dragon teeth or other tank traps that would easily stop a tank driven spearhead. Actually I think walkers make the most sence in trench warfare stepping over the trenches rather than trying to jump each and everyone in a tank. Causing you to be unable to fire and exposing your underbelly evry time you climb out. I just hope you rip on everyone who buys a Minitaur because it is unfluffy. Krieg is not supposed to have any mobile artillery pieces, period.
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QUOTE (Mechanicore @ Sep 16 2008, 08:56 AM)
I can't remember where I bought it some random site someone here posted kind of a hole in the wall online store that I ussually would not trust but I took a risk and bought 2 for $50 bucks each.
How does it look japanese it looks like a panzer said transform, its as WWII german as a walker could be made. Yeah I know its un fluffy for a siege regiment to have titans of any size but if you've been paying attention the Titan legions are about to play a very big part in Varks. And who is to say that the 19th ( a regiment wiped out to the last man) couldn't have procured a few titan "trainers" to bolster thier strength. Maybe they got some walkers to counter an increased usage of dragon teeth or other tank traps that would easily stop a tank driven spearhead. Actually I think walkers make the most sence in trench warfare stepping over the trenches rather than trying to jump each and everyone in a tank. Causing you to be unable to fire and exposing your underbelly evry time you climb out. I just hope you rip on everyone who buys a Minitaur because it is unfluffy. Krieg is not supposed to have any mobile artillery pieces, period.
And the Minotaur is ugly all day.
Titans and Knights seem to go hand in hand, and like I said before, that's a Knight class something walker, and its bad [I Swear Too Much] to boot. I agree with you 100% Mechanicore.
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Same here. I think the background ("fluff" sounds so ridiculous) is extremely important, but that does not mean it's written in stone. For me one of the hardest things to do is to "40kfy" something: to make anything that is out of the GW/FW production line to have the look and feel of 40k. And as ugly as the Minotaur is, I just could not resist.....
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fluff is important.. but not to everyone, some days you just make cool models and don't restrict yourself to what some guy says is fluff... it's an ever advancing world and timeline that is ENTIRELY MADE UP...
if you want to stick to the fluff, go for it, but DO NOT TRASH A MINI on wip because it doesn't go with fluff...
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