Fully Articulated Scratchbuilt Titans, Lucius Pattern Warhound and Warlord

Time to assemble the whole and see where we stand:

The upper thigh armour needs to be lengthened about a quarter of an inch but the hinge and plate should take care of that.

The trailing legs don't have a large enough range of movement.

The leg joint lock systems works well but the bolts still need to be concealed.

The hip axles are way too thin in diameter but the length looks right.

http://i.imgur.com/ikTXV.jpg


The step dynamics look right in both the static and the step out pose
http://i.imgur.com/51WPc.jpg


The front elevation while bland will convey the power of this brute.

I may have to mount the greaves higher.

http://i.imgur.com/4QfE2.jpg


And I just love these low angle shots
http://i.imgur.com/I0Er1.jpg

Astonishing! Very good documentation and a great result so far! If I would have more time I definitely would start a similar project!

I'm looking on this thread as more of a public service. While I can't hope to equal Mr Smith in originality I do hope to shed some light on how he accomplished his Magnum Opus with a few little Blackadderisms thrown in to keep my self respect.

Today I worked on the massive block that supports the weight of the upper torso and transfers it to the legs.

The pelvis is the de facto heart of this beast and many of the models I have examined it is usually much too small. We must assume this Titan masses on the order of a thousand metric tonnes at least half of which is above the waist block. There must be something substantial to support this mass and still provide the flexibility to achieve bipedal locomotion.

Below is my interpretation which masses a third of a kilo already (about 11 ounces).

I built it in two interlocking parts so I have access to the adjustment screws to change the pose.

I figure when complete it will mass about half a kilo or thirteen ounces.

That's a lot of plasticard.

http://i.imgur.com/wzcVr.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/28sm5.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/GQp3H.jpg

Someone get the canvas jacket; ya know the one with the extra long sleeves. I was piddlin' around detailing the pelvis and I couldn't find a satisfactory Adeptus Mechanicus emblem so I decided to make one of my own, after all I mean how hard could it be.

Well I have to tell you the cogged sprocket was tedious. If I do another one I'll make it in pieces.

The plugs and wiring wasn't too bad I shaved down my smallest diameter rods to half round for the plugs and and used shavings for some of the smallest cables.

http://i.imgur.com/8GNYJ.jpg


The skull wasn't that difficult at all. I first tried to make it of a single scrap of 2.0 MM sheet styrene but found the relief wasn't deep enough so I glued on another layer and carved away everything that didn't look like a skull.




Periodically I doused the sculpture down with thinset cement to soften the cuts and blend the seams. Right now I am waiting for the glue to dry so I can put on the final detailing.

http://i.imgur.com/6wrIf.jpg


Now I copied this off of "The city of the dead" emblem which I like better than the standard Adeptus Mechanicus emblem BTW it appears that the emblems can be mirror imaged, is that right?

Anyway it took less time to make the tiny thing (It's only a centimeter wide the skull that is.) than it has to write this reply.

I gotta learn to type someday.

Hmmm this doesn't bear a close inspection. I brushed the piece with a shoe brush to see if I could accentuate the relief and the skull looks a bit flawed at close range highlighted. The lens rim also has to be thinned down a tad. This is the best close up I've managed with this camera and wouldn't you know it's of dubious work. Faa!

http://i.imgur.com/fOi2g.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/xAcTi.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/4DiaV.jpg

Very well done.. I love the shear size of it.. Nice and great work on the details.. I am sure you will get them figured out but in the pics they look great.

For overall scale

The following is a question from another forum:

That's the one I copied albeit 1/2 the size.

http://i.imgur.com/prU6y.jpg

The whole emblem is as small as my thumbnail

Time to break out the foam board mock up I made so many months ago and see where I went wrong. At that time I was going for a foam Warlord with a styrene veneer and after I totally miscalculated the legs I put the whole project on hold until I had some decent measurements.

I'm surprised how close I came to duplicating my target size as both of these models were built with absolutely no reference to the other. On the negative side the overall height with the knees locked in the following images will yield a 29 inch Warlord which is an inch taller than the DS model and 3 inches taller than my amended target height and 5 inches taller than my original estimation! Egad!

http://i.imgur.com/K5tnv.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/b5816.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/lxvqG.jpg


Granted the legs as they are pictured look a bit stilted (groan) and with knees flexed and stepping out in a dynamic pose the mean height should approximate DS's model but it will make any subsequent Emperor titans that much larger and impractical for the average battleboard.

looking very much forward to seeing that one come alive, too. Although that means you're forcing me to watch this topic for another 2 years or so (i'm guessing).

great work so far

Nows your chance to participate in this build. Your input will be greatly appreciated..........

The torso pictured is just a foam board mockup; once I have established a size I'll duplicate the foam board version in styrene. And don't forget I intend to install a complete compartmented interior so getting the size of the torso right is paramount at the moment.

Photoimpacted in carapace and superstructure at 100, 90, and 85 percent the 80% being ridiculously too small

http://i.imgur.com/g1IVN.jpg

100%................................................90%.................................................85%

In the cold light of day I am leaning towards 90%

The much anticipated torso build finally; I shall start with the Engineering level with the floor being the top of the planetary mechanism body rotation plate. I have reduced the overall size 10% witness the excess outside the gear plate uprights. The center console/axle support is one of the drums left over from a failed sleeve originally earmarked for the hip axles. That will support the center control monitor consoles in the center well.

http://i.imgur.com/vDp8R.jpg

The majority consensus is 90% is the way to go:

The Giant Washer TGW (AKA "The planetary mechanism body rotation plate") is the part I am working on at present. It will supply the Engineering/Logistics compartment ELC with a floor and have a hatch for access to the planetary gears and pelvic block/rear gunner platform. The central shaft housing will contain the fiber optic cables for the Integrated Logistics Systems ILS and the forward deck of the compartment will have the Terrain Mapping Computer TMC and Monitor to ensure proper Stable Footing SFM for the vehicle. On either side will be view ports to maintain a first hand view of the legs as a back up in case the monitors are scrambled [I Try To Swear]*. Thanks to Bibbles suggestion I now have ample room to install all these components.

http://i.imgur.com/ElVmi.jpg


There is no I in engineering.......er.... well there is but you know what I mean

*Watch The Footing

The first thing I have to say is WOW WOW WOW WOW!!!! This thing looks incredible!!! I wish I had a tenth of your skills!!!

Saying that, please take this next part with a grain of salt...

Looking at the other Warlord, I can't help but think the upper legs of yours are a little longer...Because of that, it looks like the upper leg armour is a little bit small for it, both width and length. I know you're going to be adding some hinged armour, but I am not sure that will make up the difference enough.

Regardless to me, this Warlord is a thing of beauty and I envy your skills!!!

Yes, and I have been debating how to shorten the upper legs without disturbing too much of the detail. I've known for quite some time that the thigh components were a bit too long. Your reply among others prompted me to take action so yesterday and today I removed the knee discs and a bit of the detail above the axle and cut and re-drilled the axle holes 1 centimeter higher. This necessitated shortening the disc side guides and flex limit stops and shortening the zipper-like trim one set of darts front and back 1 centimeter as well.

The overall effect is positive and I am in the process of reassembling the structure.

Thanks for your support.

Pictures later....................

http://i.imgur.com/TPh2f.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/OtZvu.jpg


Alrighty then back together again and I may be imagining it but removing that centimeter gives this a more powerful look now although a might shorter the aura of menace is more apparent.

http://i.imgur.com/452b7.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/A7s9m.jpg

Getting the face of the torso at the right angle took some doing. I started at what I thought was the proper angle of 10° but it was way too much. After much trial and error I arrive at this which seems correct I shouldn't think it was completely vertical as in some Warlords I've seen but too much angle would over balance it front heavy besides not aesthetically pleasing.

http://i.imgur.com/Na6G3.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/SIftB.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/SHf2m.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/9y3T7.jpg


I wonder how much macho aesthetics is incorporated in real military hardware I mean you don't see any assault rubber duckies do you?

That's looking fantastic! Shortening the legs made a world of difference.

As I said before, wish I had a tenth of your ability! Looking forward to seeing it complete

How not to build a titan

First don't have any plan.

Second don't have any diagrams.

Third don't have any conception of what you are attempting.

Fourth don't bother to draw any of the above.

Finally build the whole damned thing inside out so when you find you did make a mistake all the interior work is wasted.

Anyway I'm about to cut the slot for the command center so I figure it's a good time for some catchup pictures.

http://i.imgur.com/imkmz.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/GIyOw.jpg

The previous posts were not a complaint or a lament but a public service note to anyone attempting to build a Titan. The intelligent modeler doesn't do things the way I do.

Witness, I haven't the vaguest idea were anything goes in the interior and just a hint of intuition on the relative size of the interior compartments. I feel the engineering department would be low and centrally located consuming two levels.

The magazine storage for non-energy weapons would be above the armament on each side and a belt feed to the firing chamber. There would probably be a fire/targeting control room for each weapon.

The Bridge/Command deck behind the cockpit is a gimme likewise the void generator placement above the carapace shoulders.

So with that in mind the basic internal structure will be as imaged below.

http://i.imgur.com/Pug9f.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/aZBMh.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/HfjgM.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/nZH84.jpg

Man I am going to pretend I didn't see this........................... Whom I kidding subconsciously I'm already figuring how to make a short segmented neck similar to the Chinese bamboo dragons we got as kids



well they're plastic now but the idea is the same.

I'll sleep on it.

Thanks for the info #@$%^$!

Whoops, forgot the reason for this post installed the hinged side panels for the Engineering department. The ceiling will have indirect lighting and the rear panel will be removable for viewing........

http://i.imgur.com/7BdH3.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/QdaRg.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/9biqd.jpg

Today was kind of a dress up and trim the various panels prior to building the head and neck and compartment directly behind the head whatever that area might be.

http://i.imgur.com/k2ZHa.jpg


I also installed the torso on the legs for a scale reference which appears satisfactory. The cutouts in the hinged side panels will be observation ports to view the working of the legs and arms and will have clear styrene glazing so the interior lights will illuminate the underside of the carapace and the detail.

http://i.imgur.com/S1pW7.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/hN7XM.jpg

Due to a casual suggestion from one of my readers I have been side tracked making the damned head movable. Until that time I was blissfully unaware the the head had the capacity for movement.

Given that the compartments are essentially rectangular I saw little cause to make the neck tubular as was my first inclination. It was so much easier to adapt the double axle premise I used on the hip joints. The images below demonstrate the mobility of the neck in the up and down movement while the truncated triangle will mount the axle for the side to side movement.

http://i.imgur.com/WChOr.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/qUZZb.jpg


The whole Head/Neck module will be removable on the finished product and is mounted on three slides per side to insert it into the torso with a very close tolerance fit in point of fact I may have to sand it down before it is painted.

http://i.imgur.com/P51lX.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/82SpI.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/tNEEm.jpg


This little side project was very time consuming but the psychological effect is overwhelming. Imagine the last thing the target sees before being blasted into oblivion as that great head slews around servo motors humming malevolently to transfix the victim with a steely heartless crimson stare even as the plasma weapons begin to glow in prelude to firing.

Wow, the time You have spend to build the neck joint was not wasted. This "boarding bridge"- design was the best choice, I think. Fits very well to the chunky warlord- desingn

Awesome work!

Thanks,

I notice from your text that a number of you are having a bit of problem with sanding. Forgive me from stating what you may already know but the information may be useful to those who follow these threads. I use two methods to sand: first on a flat and true surface such as a Formica counter top I lay a full sheet of coarse sandpaper; good stuff such as 3M aluminum oxide paper 60 grit. Next I sand only in one direction. If you sand back and forth you can't help but start rocking and end up with a convex cut. anytime you sand or file, only cut in one direction.

My second method of sanding is a square and true sanding block. I cut half a dozen of these 5/4 by 3 inch by 6 inch blocks many years ago and affixed the sandpaper (3M aluminum oxide) with 2 inch double back tape. when the paper wears out I peel it of and apply new. Again only sand in one direction and it is helpful to rest the piece to be sanded on the table so your cut is clean and true. I also use a steel emery board for tight places although I lost my best one in the move..........Drat!

Once the piece approaches the scribed or penciled line I switch to a medium grit paper for the final dressing. As the edge will probably have glue solvent applied it isn't necessary to use any finer than medium grit. Once glued and the edge is squre but must be beveled I use medium or fine paper on block to true the edge.

I also use a really good and clean single cut file with a medium and fine tooth again only file in one direction not back and forth.

Although I have stated this tutorial before it bears repetition.

Not much point in my assembling the whole thing for such a minuscule amount of work but I must say I am gratified at the speed the carapace is coming together. Although I have procrastinated a bit since Monday I still managed to affix the neck shield and arm shield face plates.

http://i.imgur.com/xzWZH.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/3Cwyd.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/cRtc7.jpg