Pip Krieg Bombard, New painting scheme

[Ultramar]

After finishing my DKOK trench digger I decided to have a go at my bombard and finish it for good.

Once of the good things about waiting enough time to paint it is that I could buy some excellent DKOK figures to ride it (I really think they are the best -and cooler- figures ever produced by GW!).

For the moment being, it's just the base coat, some mapping effects over it and the figures poses.







(last one was just to show the barrel rifling )


To be updated soon!

[Marcio Silva]

Astounding as usual...

[Lord Of Rebirth]

It looks great. I still prefer the leman chassis but more because I don't have a clue how to scratch build such nice platforms.

[Mechanicore]

I thought you had painted that grey and yellow. hmm must have been some other karl. You know now that I think of it I can't recall ever seeing something of yours painted, maybe seeing yours will make me decide on a color finally.

Those crew are awesome you must list the arm swaps you did. The "assume guidance" guy is perfect. and the goon who pulls the lever is priceless.

[Narziss]

Looks adorable so far!

i hope we will get an update soon, and many, many nice pix on your blog!

[vicious_killer]

does it have a rear dozerblade to dig it in so it doesn't flip over backwards?

+ love the barrel rifling probably try it out on my baneblade

[fjk177]

wow that looks great! i cant wait to see it done. ill be following this thread closely

is that just a primer or are you going to paint that color? i think that would, look great next to your ragnarock in the winter scheme. of course a desert scheme would be lots of fun to do aswell what with all that dust and rain marks that seem show up well on tan schemes. darn my white
fjk

[Ultramar]

Well, some updates....

As Mechanicore noticed, the bombard was originally painted in gray and yellow... I decided to try a new camo look (see below ).

On the other hand, the bombard does not have a rear dozerblade... I did it similar to the Karl mortar (I scratchbuilt a longer chimera-like hull).

Next step: A bit of acrylics "mapping". I just paint irregular patches of colors (use a #8 soft round brush) similar to the basecoat. The paint is a bit dilluted (I added glaze medium as well as water) and overlap over them. This is to obtain chromatic variety. The effect is completely exaggerated, but we are going to fix that.


Now I used my airbrush to unify a bit the color mapping. I use a very diluted (80%) paint and gloss varnish mix (I am mixing gloss varnish in the paint for two reasons: Give the basecoat a satin finish and provide extra strength to the first paint layers). I put air pressure at 0,50 kg/cm2. The colors are more unified now, but there still a need for contrast, as next weathering steps are going to blend and darken everything a bit more.


Next step is to apply the camo pattern. I use a mix of Tamiya's acrylics and varnish (70% paint to 30% varnish ratio) diluted to a 50%. Air pressure was 0,75 Kg/cm2. Camouflage is painted freehand , with the airbrush close to the surface.


More updates soon

[Dominus Ex Machina]

Ultramar, you are awesomeness incarnate.

Great work here already! I really like the camo scheme you're going for.

[jais]

Looks great!

And nice camo

[terrorbore]

tell me , where are those crew from ? the medusa/basilisk carriages ?

havnt seen them much , but tthey certainly fit this beastie

[Narziss]

first reaction:
second:

Thanks for sharing your pictures! and the detailed infos on your color- choice is great!

[Col. Sacharov]

very nice work! the camo scheme remembers me the old schemes of the italian tanks and aircrafts in north africa of the IIWW

[Gabriell]

.........


Ultramar You are my boss teaches I divine tone to know


I am meadows has to clean your toilet if you wants

That to say simply perfect and magnificent

[fjk177]

this is looking awesome!
cant wait to see it finished
fjk

[Ultramar]

Well a little update, but first some info:

The crewmen are for those kits:
http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/hvyartcrew.htm (although you do not get ammo or the trolley if you buy it separately).
http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/quadlcrew.htm
http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/dkkartcrew.htm

I just did some minor changes to the arms, moving hands, and so on...

Next stage is the filtering process. I'll apply successive layers of very subtle enamel glazes to deepen the colors and unify the paintwork.



I use enamel paint and odorless turpentine for that. You can also use oils, but it would take 12 hours for the oils to dry between layers. We stick to enamels as they are completely dry in "just" two hours. You can not do this technique with acrylics (water has too much surface tension and tend to form drops). The filter is just like a wash, although more diluted (95% thinner, 5 % enamel) and you just apply an even thin layer of tinted thinner over the entire model (or part of it), not letting it to accumulate in recesses (if it accumulates, then you have a wash, and not a filter). It helps to soak excess thinner from the brush (a soft round #8 is best) on a tissue before applying the filter.

I selected Humbrol 62 as it suits very well the tan color of the bombard. I am starting giving the model a total of three filters (remember to let them dry at least 2 hours before applying next one).

This is after the first filter (the ammo loading vehicle has no filters yet). There is a subtle difference.


I used the time between filters to basecoat details. Although you need to wait two hours to add more thinner on top, you can manipulate the model in about five minutes (if not, you did a wash! too much thinner! )

After three filters:





you can see here the filtered area (right) next to the unfiltered one (left). Filters are great to fine-tune the desired color, as well as unifying everything. However, filters invariably darken the colors below, so it's better to give the basecolor a lighter shade than required.

[Narziss]

i think i have to buy Enamel paints.... NOW!!!

Stunning what depth glazes add!
Thanks again for detailed Infos.

[Jarleinn]

looking really good! I love the effect you have with the camo. guess i need to use some enamels on my tanks...

[Gabriell]

Is not that I like annoying people but I saw something that he misses

I explain, by looking at the images which are put I sees nobody hatches or trape of access for the pilot of the tank of supply

Would he be that is an error of my part?

[Old Guard]

I'm sure you explained this in the WIP thread (which I missed- sorry) but is the gun assembly a scratchbuilt or did you chore it of another model.

The whole thing is looking fantastic and to make up for the above i am keeping a close and regular eye on it.

[Ultramar]

Well, another update here...

The bombard hull is scratchbuilt, you'll find the WIP HERE

For the hatch issue... what can I say... I forgot to do a proper one!!! I suppose the the crewmen squeeze with all those gasmasks and longcoats through the tiny porthole in the front (no one said life was easy in Krieg Army, you know ).

Next stage was to mask some areas to accept two new colors. I used regular Tamiya masking tape. You can not see it, but the muzzle of the mortar is masked with liquid mask (apply it with a toothpick, NEVER with a brush).


I started with a primer-like color for the ammo storage and the mortar barrel.


Then I used Stencil to cover the areas that will have decals on. Stencil is close to pure white, but not as strong, is better for markings on vehicles.


I am going to try to print my own decals for my first time (I am quite excited, I hope that my order arrives soon ). For the moment being, I just pasted some samples on plain white paper to see if the fitted the whole painting scheme (yes, I know that the colors clash! but this is going to be fixed during weathering phases):



Now I do a wash with oils and odorless turpentine. I mix equal parts of black and dark umber and dilute it to a 70% of turpentine. It's important that the wash is thick, and somewhat sticky. You apply it to the desired area (JUST the desired area) and let it dry some minutes.


Once the turpentine evaporates (don't worry, you can literally wait days to do next step, that is what is so amazing about oil washes), you blend the dark colored wash, removing excess using a brush or tissue with a bit of turpentine.


Another view:



I'll let it dry overnight, but I can do the same tomorrow if I wanted. Oils are simply great for this, they give you a degree of control that acrylics inks will never have!. You know...Once you try an oil wash, there is no way back

Once it is dry, (about 24 hours) I'll put the decals on and I'll give a nice satin ACRYLIC (important) varnish to seal the filters and wash for next steps.

[Tinners]

I hate you....

But I also love you.

Really awesome looking model, the paint job is great, thanks for doing a step by step guide on how you are doing it.

[Old Guard]

Thanks, I ironically found it doing a bit of hunting around later. I now hav your blog on my list of favourites

It is looking great. Can we hope that you will give us all a quick brief on the use of the home made decals?

[Gabriell]

Not tear not is not grave after all are that soldier and then if you gives them an empty bottle his(her,its) will make perfectly the afaire for needs nature

Or otherwise you little to put his, he would be fast and not bad, nor really hampered you



I find that it give a great result but is all the same very complex

[Still-learning]

unbeilvable, i'm in awe at your imagination and ability for painting.

Keep up and good work and most of all keep us updated!

PM sent btw with a question.