Please visit Mini Lites official site for more details and information
Mini Lites our selling these frames. If interested contact me.
Frames starting at $650 for standard frame & $800 for race frames
SUSPENSION FABRICATION PACKAGE
(All your suspension parts/bungs/heims/bulkheads/rear housing/tie rods/spindles/front & rear arms all built for you)
Front bulk head & bracing.
Front Spindle kit with combo spindles
Front 1 1/4 bottom & 1" top, A-arms custom width/length/size with threaded bungs already installed to be used with 5/8 heims.
Rear Custom width 1.5 tubing by .250 wall thick Pivot tube (torsion housing) with 3/4 threaded bungs in the ends.
Rear trailing arm pivot brackets & bracing installed.
Rear 1 1/4 inch trailing arms custom width/length/sizes. with bearing carrier flanges with brake brackets built in.
They also come with threaded bungs for use with 3/4 heims & inner pivot bushings.
Complete Heim Kit with 18 heims, 18 Jam nuts & 28 High Miss alignment spacers
(Steering Rack & Shocks sold seperately) The buggy can be built from 8.5 to 9 feet long depending on your motor and racing preferences.
It is under 6 feet wide to the outside of the tires and has a wheel base between 85 to 100 inches.
Again depending on what your going to be racing etc. the car can be set up for you.
It has 18 inches of front wheel travel and zero bumpsteer and 18 inches of rear wheel travel also.
Current photo of car so far:The current specs on my Mini Lite are as follows:
-Car is under 9 feet long front bumper to back.
-70 inches wide, outside of the tires.. must not be wider then 72"
-95 inch wheel base which is the max for class
-Engine... not purchased yet but must not be greater then 800cc
street bike engine.. so looking into GSXR-750 motor?
-18 inches of wheel travel at all four corners
- 4.5 inches of ground clearance at full compression
-running a spool and sprocket for now.. need more cash flow to uprgrade to a full rear diff set up and FNR... But built in room to upgrade later.
-Full 930 race gear and rear micro stubs.
-26.5 inch tall BFG all terrains.. after motor and set up I may go larger in the rear as I think I will have the power.
-DOM 1 1/4 lower .120 wall A-arms with 3/4 outer heims & 5/8 inner heims at the bulkhead
-Top arms are 1" DOM with all 5/8 heims
-Chromoly 1" with 5/8 heim tie rods
-Rear traling arms are 1 1/4 by .120 wall with 3/4 heims and 3/4 outer bolts and 7/8s inner pivot bolts.
-Front end weight at each wheel 220 lbs each.
-Rear (without motor) 210 lbs per wheel. (no motor)
-Total Weight as a full roller minus motor/radiater/battery/wiring/brake & clutch/throttle lines and computer cpu etc.
860 lbs currently as a full roller. Thats a complete roller with wheels/tires/brakes/floors/pedals/seat/body/6 shocks & coils springs/Hid front lights/rear brake lights/brakes/bumpstops/fuel cell (no fuel)/front rack and steering with shafts and well everything you see and then some.
Current build log...
Please check back and read my entries on how the build is coming along.
You can follow along and see images of this car being built and post comments and questions if you like.
Info about this build:
I have wanted to build a mini single seat buggy for racing for awhile now.
With my 2 seat a arm frame design completed and with me being very happy with that design I set out to copy that into a much smaller motorcycle powered single seater.
I looked over the specs put out by a lot of people, race organizations, and especially the info on minibuggy.net and took all the info I could and then took what I know and enjoy working with and now have 3 note books full of info and drawings of designs.
So with that and with my own ideas, ease of building in my own shop, cost of over all fabrication of parts needed and all kinds of other factors I set out and built my mini single seat frame based off my two seat frame.
I have set up a new fixture table to build two versions of this frame.
The first #1 my frame shown here. It is larger and has a larger motor compartment for a bigger engine etc. and will be built for desert racing with the ability to hit the pro motorcycle powered class at places like Glen Hellen or Parris etc. It will have larger everything including wheel base, motor, tires, well everything really.
The other version #2 is going to be smaller for stadium racing and will have a 4 inch smaller cab and 6 inch smaller motor compartment for running a smaller motor, cvt and parts. It will be a more true stadium built buggy.
The frames will not be much different in Looks but the parts and motor etc. will be the biggest changes. The smaller frame and changes from desert to stadium style will save you approx. 23 pounds just in the frame already though just to give you an idea of size.
Basically I took the style and shape of my new 2 seat a arm car I just built and made it into a very small single seater.
But a couple things had to be built into this frame. 1 it had to pass rules for racing in the local organizations I race with. So they all use the SCORE rule book and 1.5 inch tubing is the only size they allow. So I needed to design it small enough but yet use 1.5 tubing. As I have watched Protodie build several cars in this size and asking him for info I was able to build my frame to pass SCORE rules.
(More X bracing and gussets still to follow this is just the main structure at this time)
2 it had to fit in the size restrictions for a "Mini Buggy" as posted by everyone on this site and most organizations that race mini buggies so I could race it at and against other minis. Not just at the track but also with the organizations I already race with.
So I thought a lot on it, took notes talked to people and built my frame to be 9 feet total front to back with an approx. 90 to 95 inch wheelbase. That should work out well for what I want. I can build it shorter both in size by half a foot and have a wheel base 85-90 then. Or go longer by half a foot and be upwards of 100 inch wheel base.
I plan on racing it in a pro or open class so suspension is open and motorcycle engine will be around the 1,000cc range. It will need it as this will be a little heavier car. Safe but heavier.
I am using a front single bulk head for the front part of my A-arms to connect to and the rear part of the a-arm will mount to my main cage support bars. I have played around and done some mock up work and am about ready to get started making some well more mock up arms but some that can actually hold up the car. They lay to the back a couple inches from the bulkhead to allow the a-arm to almost swing back with the rake I built into the front end to help the ride. Should work well.
Im at 18 inches front and would like to maybe 16 inches of travel rear and be about 72 to 76 inches wide. I can be as wide as I want for where I race but for short course I don't want to get to crazy.
The rear is going to be swing arms. Simple, easy to set up and adjust plus plenty strong. Also I am going to run the same bearing carriers and parts as my 2 seat car I just built so it can be both a pre runner, chase and well donor car should the need arise.
Back I am hoping for maybe 14-16 inches of travel.. the 16 is yet to actually work.. but will see. 14 seems reasonable with the 26 inch tall tires and at the 72 inch wide range, plus a narrow center drive sprocket with 930 cvs will help. I will run coil overs and a small bypass just to have the ability to make on the spot adjustments at a track and actually during a race even if I want to change how the car handles for each track I go on.
Here it is next to the 2 seater
and side shot showing the 3 foot shorter size and no I did not slide the car back it really is that much shoter.
it without the photoshop body.
Something I did why I built this was set up its own fixture table.
I made this table slide into the bigger table so the two tables fit together.
Then the single seater sets into the new table and you build it to fit it.
Here is a pic
here it is without the closed in body bars. Just open like my dual sport car is. It can be left open but I wanted to close it in like desert cars do and other cars do too.
You can see it clamps into the 2 seat table and has adjustable heigth mid rails. Nice.
Also when I want to pull the car off the table the side mid rail fixtures you just pull a pin and they drop down and out of the way.
I also played around with some different bumper ideas
and the finished frame
Thanks for looking more info will be added as I get to it.
Also if your interested in the stadium or short course car you can see the post and talk about it here in this topic.http://z11.invisionfree.com/Tut_Tech_Racin...p?showtopic=264